Americans who have not traveled to Campania are not likely to have experienced the extraordinary qualities of mozzarella di bufala. Even in Italy, most of the fresh mozzarella served is made from cows’ milk, known as fiordilatte. In the U.S., fiordilatte is commonly available, whereas one can find imported mozzarella di bufala only in specialty stores, vacuum-sealed to extend its very short life span. Campanians will tell you that mozzarella di bufala sealed in plastic or kept around for more than a couple of days does not measure up; Campanians wouldn’t eat it.

The distinguishing characteristics of mozzarella di bufala are: 1. its soft, extremely moist, texture, and 2. its unique, profound taste. The taste of milk from a water buffalo is sui generis; and it is haunting. Fiordilatte, by comparison, has less moisture, is consequently more firm, and it is extremely mild. The taste of fiordilatte is fresh and clean, but it is virtually without taste. Mozzarella di bufala, on the other hand, is immensely flavorful, rich in butterfat and very satisfying. The Orofino family who live in Posillipo once served mozzarella di bufala as the main course at a dinner we very much enjoyed together in their wonderful home overlooking the sparkling waters of the Bay of Naples.  The cheese followed a tasty antipasto of prosciutto with crusty bread and the family’s olive oil, and a delicious pasta cooked with lentils. A bountiful salad and fruit for dessert concluded a memorable Neapolitan supper.

On a beautiful autumn afternoon in Campania, my exuberant partner Giorgio Orofino announced to our group of enthusiastic culinarians that today we would be visiting his friend Antonio’s water buffalo farm near Benevento. Antonio, Giorgio told us, operated the "most important" water buffalo farm in Campania. After the farm, we would follow the milk to the production facilities of Signora Russo who makes the best mozzarella di bufalo in all the world.

The culinarians were excited, but none of us were quite prepared for the experience. Our bus driver Lorenzo, a native of the area, began the adventure by announcing that he was lost in the post-harvest countryside, about 45 minutes into our journey. Luckily, like all modern Italians, Lorenzo had his cell phone handy.  We were promptly rescued by Antonio’s forces who were dispatched to find us with the aid of cellular telecommunications technology.

Soon we were creeping along a succession of primitive roadways, deeper into the country, where we noticed a concentration of buffalo farms. The singular and most striking characteristic of this area was the impact it made upon the olfactory senses. Water buffalo farms generate aromas like nowhere we had ever been. The only similar experience I can relate was during a visit we once made to the famous Perugina chocolate factory near Perugia. Everything in and around the place smelled like delicious chocolate. Water buffalo farms produce the same overwhelming aromatic effect, but on the opposite end of the aromatic spectrum, if you know what I mean. Both groups were intoxicated, although in quite different ways.

We were spared the milking process.  The mechanized milking station, however, appeared to be state of the art (we were assured that it is) and we learned that the buffalo are milked a couple of times each day. Given the size and scope of the U.S. dairy industry it is surprising that water buffalo are not raised in this country for milk and cheese production. The milk yield of buffalo is significantly higher than that of cows, and, because of the richness of buffalo milk, less is required for cheese manufacture. As best I can determine, there is only one small producer of mozzarella di bufala in the U.S. who has but a few animals in production. Dairy farmers, listen up: there’s a business opportunity here but I would advise that anyone interested contact Antonio and make plans to visit his farm. There may be easier ways to make a living.

At the cheese plant we were once again warmly received, this time by Signora Russo, a strong and handsome woman who directed production with vigor, passion and absolute control over six strong men and one young woman whose techniques and labors impressed us all as a throw-back to another time . There were no mixers or machines in the production room; only a few vats, some made of wood, some stainless steel; some plastic; plenty of running water, a few paddles and the strong arms and hands of the cheese makers. Plastic boots were assigned before we joined the crew.